Thursday, September 13, 2012

We visit the DirtFish Rally School

I'm back in Chiang Mai and it feels good to be here. Yesterday evening I was sitting on our little balcony looking out as the clouds swirled around in the falling light and thinking about how comfortable I feel in Thailand. Of course, I realize that a lot of that comfort is because of Nut. She is not only a fantastic girlfriend but my interface to this wonderful country.

I guess being here sort of reminds me of how there used to be actual neighborhoods in the U.S. when I was a boy. In my neighborhood there were mom and pop stores on practically every corner. I can count from memory at least a dozen such stores in Sloan, the small Buffalo suburb (1 sq mile) where I went to high school. Sadly, all that has been changed forever with the advent of shopping malls and big box stores. Thailand still has that small neighborhood feel even in a city as big as Chiang Mai.

I got here early this year and the rainy season is still exerting its effects on the weather. Today is bright and sunny but it's been quite cloudy and rainy for the past week. Nut and I rode the bike to a popular viewpoint above Chiang Mai the other day where I snapped this view of the city below.

View of Chiang Mai from Route 1004 lookout




I had wanted to write this entry about the time I spent with Tuli and Harper but didn't get around to it when I was still in the states. Earlier in the summer Tuli found a good deal on a short, introductory course in rally driving and had signed up for it. He asked if I would be interested in coming along to hang with Harper and I said, yes, I love a road trip, so on the 29th of last month he and Harper and I set off for Snoqualmie, Washington where the DirtFish Rally School is located. (N47.53774 W121.81143)

Everyone we talked with at the school is a car enthusiast, as you might expect, and it was a fun experience. The full length courses are pricey and beyond the reach of most normal folks and I learned that maintaining the fleet of Subaru Impreza WRX STi rally cars is very expensive as well. If I recall correctly, Tuli got his one-afternoon short course for about $300 making it a relatively affordable adventure. However a full 3-day course will set you back about three grand. Another student, car-enthusiast we talked with said he thought being close to Microsoft is the reason a school like this one can turn a profit.

Following are some scenes from the school and the course. Some of the cars are rare, one of a kind rally cars — one we looked at is worth upwards of $300 thousand dollars — and are there on loan from their owners.

All Wheel Drive Subarus are justifiably popular on Alaska's icy winter roads but I was surprised to learn just how popular the Impreza is with the rally crowd. Apparently when Subaru introduced the turbocharged AWD Impreza WRX back in the early 90s it took the rally world by storm and revolutionized the sport. These cars start out as stock vehicles but are worked over extensively inside and out before they can be safely and competitively raced. The 2.0 liter engine in this one, WRC99, built for driver John Burns, puts out 300 hp and 480 ft-lb of torque. The interiors are stripped and rebuilt with carbon-fiber panels, roll cages, electronics, fire protection equipment, and more.

Subaru Impreza World Rally Car WRC99
Cockpit of WRC99
Here is a Ford Focus custom built for driver Colin McRae. Its specs are similar to the Impreza above: it sports a turbo-charged 300 hp, 2.0 liter engine and AWD and a ton of customizations.
Ford Focus World Rally Car

The cars at the school, while not as highly modified as these, nevertheless are powerful racing machines putting out 300 hp like the ones above. When I was in high school the Pontiac GTO was a popular muscle car — we used to say GTO stood for Gas Tires and Oil. These cars are like that: they go through motor oil and special soft-tread dirt track tires rather quickly. They use a brand of tire I never heard of, dMack Grippas,  that cost about $150 apiece. The Impreza's turbocharger is oil-cooled which we were told makes frequent oil changes a requirement. Tuli's instructor told us the tires last about 3 days and the oil gets changed at about the same interval. They use multi-viscosity Mobil-1 5W-50 synthetic oil exclusively in all their vehicles. The gravel plays havoc with disk brake rotors as well. There is a full scale auto shop on the premises to handle repairs, modifications and maintenance.
Tuli with the instructor on the "skid pad"
Students start out learning how to handle the cars during a turn on the "skid pad". Driving an AWD car through sliding turns on dirt is very different from what Tuli is used to. He's done some sport driving in his rear-wheel drive 1995 BMW 325i but that was on pavement. The techniques needed to run an AWD automobile at speed through turns on loose gravel are introduced in this first phase of the course. In all cases, an instructor takes the car and student through the course a few times explaining the techniques of left-foot braking and weight transfer, hand brake turns, etc. Then he turns the car over to the student for several runs through the same turns using those skills.

Tuli driving the slalom course
Special dirt track "Grippa" tires
Later they drive on a slalom course and then finally a small race track, the "Boneyard", with quick turns that included a couple of tight hairpins. The idea is to take what you've learned in the early lessons and put it into practice during a simulated racing experience. I think it's fair to say Tuli enjoyed the course immensely. And Harper loved the microphone equipped helmet his dad got to use.

Two handsome boys



We took the opportunity to visit some old friends while we were in Washington. We stopped for a night at Dody's, an old friend from Homer, and at Peggy and Dan's, folks I know from the years I lived in Boston back in the 70s.

By the time we got back to Eugene three days later we had driven over 1,000 miles. Harper had been good as gold on the long trip and we had had our fair share of road trip snacks and Starbucks coffee. The DirtFish school has a website at www.dirtfish.com if you want to check it out. Oh yeah, and you might find it fun to take a look at this YouTube video of a crazy guy named Ken Block putting some of these same driving techniques to practice in San Francisco.

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Summer's end

My time in Homer has ended for this year. I wanted to post a few photos to show how things slow down as they get ready to pull back for the long winter to come. Alaska's growing season is fast and furious — plants have to grow fast to catch enough sun to flower and seed in the few short weeks of summer. Then almost as quickly they begin to fade away.


Alder leaf
Pushkii
Elderberry
I'm in Eugene now, where it is still summer I might add, and don't know exactly when I'll be able to return to Homer. I simply don't know how long it will take to recover from this huge surgery that feels far away at the moment but is in reality very close. For the time being I'll enjoy being here with my son Tuli and his son, Harper. And in a few short days I'll be back in Thailand with Nut.
Tanker on Kachemak Bay
Kachemak Bay panorama
In my last post I said the result of the angiogram felt like a reprieve. It still does. Even though I need heart surgery, I'm less concerned about having a sudden heart attack now that I know those pipes around my heart aren't clogged with cholesterol. Consequently, I've been happy as a clam and have very much enjoyed my last few weeks in Alaska. Working with my old friends at Alaska Boats & Permits all summer was really cool too as we completed a few big projects that should benefit the business greatly in the months and years to come. All things considered, I'm glad to say it's been a good summer.

Kirk's sauna — my quiet sylvan resort for the past 2 months

Sunday, August 12, 2012

A matter of the heart

No, this isn't about a love affair. Nut and I are doing quite well, thank you. It is about a heart though, my heart.

I went to my doctor a few weeks ago for my annual physical before returning to Thailand. I like and trust my Homer docs, Randy and Bill, and we have a great relationship. Everything checked out fine and Randy and I exchanged the usual jokes about my heart murmur we've been tracking for the past eight or ten years, jokes about "valve jobs" and that maybe it's getting to be time for an overhaul. A heart murmur is a sound a doctor can hear with a stethoscope that is indicative of a malfunctioning heart valve. The heart has valves that open and close with the contractions of the heart muscle to force blood to go forward but not back, sort of like a one-way switch. When one of those valves isn't closing properly or is allowing a significant fraction of the blood that's supposed to be moving forward to leak back, it makes a characteristic sound we call a murmur.

Towards the end of the exam Randy suggested I go to South Peninsula Hospital to get an echo-cardiogram just to see if anything new or significant had developed in my heart valves. An echo-cardiogram provides a completely non invasive way to obtain an image of the heart using sound waves, sort of like a sonar depth finder on a fishing boat. But the technology has advanced to the point that measurements of flow rate (called ejection fraction), leak back (called regurgitation), valve diameters, and many other heart and blood flow characteristics can be not only visualized but accurately measured through the use of a 3D Echo-Cardiograph machine, a very cool and ultra high-tech device.

As I watched the pretty pictures on the computer screen I kept up a steady banter with the gal doing the examination. But when she started inspecting my aortic valve she got quiet. She said, hmmmm, that's not opening like it should, not exactly the words I wanted to hear at that time. Soon after that we finished up and I left the hospital. Later when I was at the tennis courts I got a call from my doctor. Deep down I had almost expected the call, just not so soon. He told me I should go to Anchorage as soon as possible to have my heart checked out by a specialist. Your aortic valve has severe stenosis and is only opening about one-third as much as it should, he told me. All of a sudden I realized why I've been avoiding those big bike rides of late. They tire me more than they used to — I had marked it up to the natural and inevitable decline in endurance as I approach 70 years of age. Now, it turns out, there is a more significant reason for my lack of stamina when climbing hills. I'm being shortchanged by a reduced flow of oxygenated blood to my body through this important valve at the top of my heart.

They don't know for sure what causes stenosis. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with high cholesterol or diet, exercise or lack of it. It might be because I had rheumatic fever as a child. Who knows? The problem is I have it and there is no cure nor is there any medication that can correct it. Aortic valve replacement surgery is the only option. This is no small thing, especially for one who has never had any surgery other than a tonsillectomy many years ago. It is open heart surgery, an operation during which they will stop my heart and put me on a heart-lung machine to keep me alive while the surgeon cuts out the old valve and sews in a new one. That's a tough remedy.

Naturally, I was alarmed. I was pretty sure the specialists would recommend immediate surgery. And hell's bells there I was, ready to return to Thailand in less than a month. I called Nut on Skype to explain the situation to her and told her I would be probably be coming to Thailand late, a month, maybe two, would have to pass before I would be well enough to travel. She was bummed but encouraged me to get it taken care of. She said, "I can wait. No problem. Take care of yourself, then come Thailand."

I began doing research on the Internet. There are several types of open heart surgery in use these days. The "gold standard" is the one where they split the sternum down the middle and pry it open to give the surgeon easy access to the heart. But there are less invasive types too. One requires a much smaller opening, only a couple of inches, near the top of the sternum. There are also several kinds of replacement valves available: ones made from human tissue, others that use pig tissue, or that from a cow or a horse. There are also purely artificial, mechanical valves on the market. These have the benefit of a long service life but because they tend to cause blood clots anyone receiving such a valve must use blood thinners like Wayfarin for the rest of their lives. All but the mechanical valves will last for about fifteen years while the horse tissue valve may last twenty. After that they must be replaced again. Depending on a person's age and condition, one type of valve or another may be recommended. A youngster will likely get a mechanical valve so that she doesn't face repeated valve surgeries as she ages. An older person would likely get a tissue valve. The implications of that are all too obvious.

Anyway, last Sunday I set off for Anchorage and the Alaska Heart Institute.  The ride to Anchorage from Homer is world class. The scenery is beautiful and regardless of the fact that the reason for my travel was quite serious, I always look forward to it. I include these photos to brighten up this gloomy post.....

Watson Lake - Sterling Highway
20 Mile River near Portage - Seward Highway
A sunken forest - trees killed in the '64 Earthquake - Seward Highway
Bottenintnin Lake - Skilak Lake Road

At the Alaska Heart Institute I underwent a procedure known as a heart catheterization or angiogram. During it the doctor inserts a narrow tube with a small attached probe, called a catheter, into the femoral artery in the area of my groin and with the aid of x-ray imaging guides it through the twists and turns of the artery until it's near the heart. Once in place a small quantity of iodine solution (about 8 cc) is injected into the bloodstream. Iodine is opaque to x-rays and thus shows up the arteries well. The images one obtains are as good a picture of the arteries supplying blood to the heart as can be had.

The main reason for this test was to determine whether any other part of my heart was compromised before embarking on a valve replacement. Seeing as they're eventually going to go inside my chest they wanted to know if I would need a coronary artery bypass at the same time. No sense in going through all that trauma twice. During our initial interview my cardiologist told me that in consideration of the fact that I have no symptoms of heart stress other than the stenosis it might be fine for me to travel to Thailand as planned but that if  the test showed I had significant blockage of any of those coronary arteries he would recommend immediate surgery. Consequently, it was with great apprehension that I found myself looking up from my gurney at Providence Hospital's million dollar, multi-armed, multi-screened, computer controlled heart cath x-ray machine last Wednesday.

The nurse prepped me with some Versed (could I have a bit more of that, please?) to get me relaxed. My doc came in and began the procedure. I swear I could feel a faint flutter inside as he guided the catheter toward my heart. When he started the dye injection I literally hung on his every comment.
"They look pretty good," he said.
After a few moments he said, "No serious occlusions."
And then, "A couple of the smaller arteries have maybe a 20-30% occlusion but all in all, not too bad."

My relief in  hearing those words was enormous. I've been concerned for years that my high cholesterol would eventually block one of those arteries and cause a heart attack. The angiogram has all but removed those worries.  It felt like a huge reprieve even if only a temporary one. I decided right then and there that I was going to Thailand on schedule and would defer the surgery until next spring.

Part of that decision was because my readings in various forums on the Internet and a few helpful library books, told me that recovery from open heart surgery can take from 3 weeks to 3 months, maybe longer. I knew that if I had the surgery I'd be chafing at the bit to get back to Thailand and my sweetheart and might be tempted to do that prematurely. And then if I did experience  any complications I'd be forced to deal with them with entirely unknown doctors and hospitals. Thailand has some excellent medical care available — indeed many people come to Thailand for medical procedures that they cannot afford in the U.S. — but I have Medicare and, until the Republicans have their way and somehow eliminate it, I can get my operation paid for in the U.S.

Plus, in my research I discovered that the best cardiac hospital in the U.S. happens to be in Cleveland, Ohio. The Cleveland Clinic is top rated, surpassing Johns Hopkins, the Mayo Clinic and the Harvard teaching hospitals in Boston, and has been ranked #1 for the past few years. Why? For starters, the overall mortality rate for these operations, some 250,000 per year, is about 2.5%. At the Cleveland Clinic it is 0%.

If that's not enough, my lovely sister Sandy lives only four hours away in Buffalo. She is willing to  accompany me to the clinic and help me through recovery. She might not be so available if I did it now as she's scheduled for hip replacement next week.

Then yesterday my cardiologist telephoned to discuss more fully the implications of my decision to postpone. I had asked to have a conversation because we hadn't had time to talk after the exam. I was half expecting him to cautiously advise me that were I to proceed I would be risking serious problems. Instead he said he didn't see any reason for immediate surgery. And that I should be just fine waiting until spring. Needless to say, I was overjoyed to have him enthusiastically sanction my plans.

So it appears that I'll be able to go to Thailand to rejoin my darling girlfriend in Chiang Mai. I'll plan my surgery and look at options from there. When I return I'll go to Cleveland and get a "valve job" at the Cleveland Clinic.

That's the plan, Stan. Wish me luck....

Saturday, July 28, 2012

I'm living in a sauna

It's been a different kind of summer.

There were a few weeks back in June when everything seemed a struggle. Yet, many friends have extended help, and with that help my problems have been solved. The twin predicaments of no car and no place to live have worked out well.

The house-sitting gig I had found and talked about here had some requirements that were never fully discussed. It was, in the end, not the best situation for a  person who, if push came to shove, could not be described as a dog lover. I don't hate dogs, but when the time came to live with two old St. Bernards and their shedding hair, I just couldn't do it. To make a long story short, I asked my old friend Kirk if I could hang out at his place for the rest of the summer. His house is small but he does have a sauna and the sauna has a small attached changing room with a bunk. I've stayed there before and it's been swell. It's tiny and has no electricity or TV but it's quiet and incredibly lush with Alaskan summer greenery. I'm reading a lot more than I would if I had the twin distractions of TV and Internet. I'm actually enjoying being offline for a change because I love reading and it seems as though I have more time to just enjoy the soft summer evenings. And when I want to Skype with Nut or check my email the Far Out Cafe isn't far away. I'm calling it my Summer Sauna Retreat.
Kirk's sauna

View from the window - June 2012
Late evening - chair with 8 foot tall pushkii (mid July 2012)
The car issue has been put to rest too. Friends lent me cars to use during the time I was searching for something to replace my Camry. Mako lent me his vintage 1984 Volvo and Doug his Toyota 4Runner. I never felt pressure to find a car immediately. Then Bill, one of my tennis buddies, recalled that a mutual friend had an old Ford Explorer that had been sitting around in his garden for several years. He thought maybe Mike wanted to dispose of it. I immediately called Mike and he said, "Come and get it. My wife has been bugging me to get rid of it for years."

The car was running when they parked it in the alder patch six years ago but it wouldn't start for us and the tires were flat. We aired up the tires and towed it over to Mike's mechanic who got it going next day. My first ride was a bit disappointing: the steering wheel wobbled violently at speeds above 45 mph, the front brake shoes were worn down to metal on metal, the rear ones didn't work at all due to a broken hydraulic line, and the transmission leaked profusely. I began to think about gift horses and how one shouldn't look at them too closely. I started talking to myself. You'd never buy an Explorer in a million years, I said. How much is it going to cost to fix it? How much gas will this thing use? Do I even want a Ford Explorer?

Not to worry — after a three day visit to my mechanic's and a repair bill of $550 it came back in good working order. The transmission leak was minor and easily fixed. New front pads and a new rear hydraulic line fixed the brakes . The tires needed to be replaced as they were dry rotted and perhaps broken inside from sitting flat in freezing mud and water for six years. Replacing the tires eliminated the wobble, the engine sounds good. Total cost to me: 1000 bucks, including the four nice used 235 75R15 tires I bought from my old traveling buddy Albert.

Me with my "new" 1993 Ford Explorer 4x4
The Homer weather this summer has left a lot to be desired as you can tell from the dark cloudy skies in my photos but I haven't let that dampen my spirits.  As I see it, the fact that my summer turned out so well is because I have many excellent friends here. Friends offered places to stay, friends provided good work, friends lent me cars, friends in fact gave me a car, and I'm presently staying with an old friend. Because those many Homer folks reached out to me in a time of need it's helped to resolve my perennial question of where I'll be staying next year. Homer is a wonderful place to be — that fact was proven again during this visit. There's no need to look for a different place. This will do nicely.

View of Grewingk Glacier from Kirk's
Folks fishing at Land's End - Homer Spit

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Adak Island

Adak?

When I was telling my friends about our upcoming trip they responded with a question: You're going to Adak? Why?

Why indeed? When Doug offered me the chance to accompany him and Bill (my partners in Alaska Boats & Permits) on a weekend flight to Adak I jumped at it. I had never been anywhere out on "the chain", as the Aleutian Islands are known to Homer fishermen, and being prone to seasickness knew if I had to take a boat to get there it was never gonna happen. I was eager to see what was out there first hand. The weather in the Aleutians is not the sort tourists seek out. A description from the official tourist guide reads: "The Aleutian climate is characterized by precipitation, fog, high winds, and frequent violent cyclonic storms. Clear, warm sunny days are rare." We already knew this from talking with friends who had fished out there but we laughed it off. We prepared ourselves for rain and wind and packed our bags accordingly. We did hope for at least a few hours of sun during our 4-day stay. Luckily, we got considerably more than that.

Adak and the Aleutians (click for a bigger image) showing ocean depths
Adak is one of many volcano studded islands that are strung in a long arc between Alaska and Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula. It's about 1100 miles west and 400 miles south of Homer situated about midway in the chain. I knew a little about Adak through my readings about World War II and that the Japanese in 1942 had invaded and occupied Attu and Kiska in their drive to dominate the Pacific. Adak was heavily fortified in March of 1942 and after building an airfield in record time (see below) used as a base to bomb Kiska, 250 miles away, and Attu, 440 miles distant. Ultimately, troops amassed on Adak assaulted Attu and after a costly battle emerged victorious. In preparation for an assault on Kiska 90,000 U.S. troops were assembled on Adak but before they ever landed the enemy garrison on Kiska was secretly evacuated and the Japanese military presence in the Aleutians finished forever. Adak remained a U.S. military outpost for many years after the end of WWII gaining importance again during the cold war when it was a forward post for gathering Soviet intelligence and a major U.S. Navy Pacific communications center. Now that the cold war has ended and the military significance of Adak vastly diminished, left in its wake are literally tons of debris and countless buildings sitting idle in various stages of decay all over the island. The U.S. Navy in 1997 may have removed its physical and economic presence from the island but it left behind countless remnants of its occupation.

It was a pleasant 3-hour flight from Anchorage on a mostly empty Alaska Airlines 737. The first thing one notices upon disembarking in Adak is the terrific wind. It's usually blowing hard and when it goes all out it's severe enough to strip the siding off houses, blow signs down and otherwise harry the inhabitants which now, after the military pull out, number only about 100 permanent residents. Jobs and money are scarce and the community is struggling to find a new economic center built around fishing and tourism.
Fishing boats in Adak Harbor

The Gannet Rocks in Kuluk Bay protect Adak Harbor
View of Sweeper Cove
As soon as we were settled into our quarters, Bill & I went for a hike while Doug stayed in town to meet some of the locals. That first day was windy and rainy but not enough to dissuade us from taking the hike. We had a pickup truck at our disposal so we drove off to find some of the first points of interest I had scoped out with the help of Google Earth and my GPS: a waterfall and a nearby lake, Lake Betty. On the way there we stopped at Finger Bay which once held extensive service facilities and anchorages for U.S. Navy PT Boats and submarines.
I'm dressed to stay warm and dry, Finger Bay in the background (N51.83245 W176.62746)
Old cabin - Finger Bay
Waterfall below Lake Betty
Windy day on Lake Betty
Along the trail to Lake Betty I noticed these old wooden water pipes and became fascinated with the idea of a pipeline to transport water down the hill all the way to town. I reckon there is enough elevation where we were standing at about 160 ft above sea level to push the water with considerable force.

Wood "barrel stave" pipe wrapped
with steel wire for strength
Wooden pipe with coupling
for joining two sections
There are many miles of gravel roads on Adak and we drove around most of the next day exploring. One road was eponymously named Bomb Storage Road. The military had facilities everywhere and built roads to connect them. Ammunition bunkers, bomb storage, personnel housing, gun emplacements, fire hydrants, quonset huts, phone lines and poles; this is what you see wherever you go on the northern part of the island.

Only a few of these quonset huts remain of the hundreds that once dotted the area
Bomb storage bunkers on Bomb Storage Road

Fire hydrants are scattered here and there
We also visited the so called Adak National Forest. There are literally no other trees on Adak so this little clump of trees is special. They were planted in 1943-45 by the Army as a morale booster. (Note: According to a comment I received in April 2016 from Louie Larson the trees were planted as a memorial for three lost fliers. See his comment below.) Only about 30 trees remain at the present date.
Adak National Forest
Right next to the "forest" is the Adak Pet Cemetery. It appears that most of the pets buried there were Christians.
We love you, Bandit,
We miss you
Pooch (1970-1985)
Best Dog in the World

Fritz Maynard (1988-1991)
A Pretty Good Dog
On the next two days we spent quite a bit of time driving around the northeastern part of the island in the vicinity of Clam Lagoon. Relics of WWII are still plentiful from the barely visible remnants of Albert E. Mitchell Field, (it's in the shape of a flattened X centered near the tip of the airplane icon below), to the gun emplacements in the hills behind Zeto Point. From the ground, you can barely discern the airfield now — we drove over the runway twice before realizing it — but Google Earth reveals faint outlines of the earthen berms that parallel the runways. It was built in just a few weeks in 1942 for use as a forward base supporting bombers, B-17s and B-24s, that flew hundreds of sorties against the Japanese on Attu and Kiska.

Albert E. Mitchell Field and Clam Lagoon (N51.936274, W176.577220)
Mitchell Field is only just visible now due to the berms alongside its runways
We had two nice afternoons for exploring.  And then the last day was almost perfect with blue-bird skies and an ocean that looked positively tropical. We started with a visit to Jean Lake and spent a few hours just hanging out in the hills overlooking Janets Cove exploring the old coastal artillery gun emplacements and enjoying the sun and sky. The Adak landscape, shrouded in clouds and mist for much of the time, revealed its true beauty that day.

Jean Lake (foreground) and Andrew Lake (N51.917088, W176.637126)
Doug, Dave and Bill at Andrew Lake, June 24, 2012
Small pond near Andrew Lake
View to the northeast from the gunmounts
View southeast from the gunmounts
Small halibut long-liner near a big hillside - a view across Janet's Cove (click image to enlarge)
Gun emplacement (N51.92792 W176.54729)
 I wanted to show the construction of these gun emplacements so I Photoshopped a circle to illustrate the iron track, only a tiny portion of which is visible in the photo, that supported the barrel.  The base of the gun was attached to the rotating center piece that was in turn attached to a concrete slab, a so called "Panama Mount". These were big guns that used a 155 mm (6 inch diameter) shell that had a range of 17 miles. They were put there to guard and protect Kuluk Bay and Adak Harbor to the south when there was still fear that the Japanese would try to push through to the mainland of the U.S. after the Pearl Harbor attack and the capture of Attu and Kiska.

All the while we were on Adak Mt. Moffett, the islands tallest peak at 4,000 feet, was hidden in a swirl of clouds and fog. But finally, on this our last day, it emerged white and resplendent.

View of Mt. Moffett from the east
My ideas about Adak and the other Aleutian Islands were changed drastically as a result of our visit. These islands are big, mountainous and beautiful. The country is treeless and owing to the gray misty climate, seems at times stark and barren. But when the sun shines it reveals itself as a gorgeously lush and beautiful land.

Nevertheless, we were happy to head back to Homer after our brief visit. Aside from the exploring and bird watching — we spotted most of the common bird species found on Adak: grey crowned ruby finches, a snow bunting, song sparrows, black oystercatchers, Aleutian terns, and bald eagles — there wasn't much else going on in Adak. There is one store, one restaurant, one liquor store, and one bar which also serves food. Everything in them is expensive (a $9 bottle of wine set us back 30 bucks, a can of evaporated milk was nearly $5) and the choices very limited. Here is a photo of the Bay Five restaurant. It's not much to look at but the Mexican style food was good and the staff friendly. None of the places mentioned above sport any signs. You just have to find them on your own.
The Bay 5
(Note August 2015: There was one other bar/restaurant we visited that I didn't talk about here because its cigarette smoke laden interior put us off but several readers have mentioned it. And a recent reader recommends the Bluebird Cafe, which we didn't happen to notice. See the comments at the end of this post.)
Doug at Bay 5
Bill at Bay 5
The neighborhood where we stayed. Most of these U.S. government built houses are deserted now.
We received a message from Alaska Airlines on Monday advising us that our return flight was to be either late or canceled. We panicked at the thought of being forced to spend another 4 days on the island because there are only 2 flights per week. In the end, our flight was merely delayed and I'm happy to say it was back to the Big City for us.

On the return flight,  I read an article, "Decontaminating Alaska", mentioning Adak in the June 2012 issue of Alaska Business Monthly I found in the seatback on the 737. As a boy I read everything I could get my hands on about WWII and thought of it as glamorous, a "good war" — it was the war my father and uncle Bill fought in after all. The truth about war, that war and all wars, only came later as I gained years and knowledge. The article fleshed out the role the U.S. armed forces played in Adak during that war. "The U.S. Navy evacuated the residents (the native Aleuts) forcibly to internment camps where many died, and burned the villages to the ground to prevent any use by the invading Japanese army..." The article goes on to describe efforts to remediate the thousands of acres of dumps, buried landfills, unexploded ordinance, asbestos, and who knows what else the Navy left behind. Although the internment of Japanese-Americans is well documented I never knew about the internment of the native Aleuts. Another shameful page in American history.

So ended our Adak adventure. Before we left I had thought of this trip as a once in a lifetime opportunity to see a remote corner of our beautiful state. It certainly met and surpassed all expectations.



Extras:
Article about a recent storm 2015